Open-air galleries, the vines are today the very trendy place for cultural happenings.
An astonishing, explosive cocktail, between tastings and exhibitions that stand out from the ranks, this new outdoor artistic scene has carved out a place of choice in the Eldorado of thecontemporary art and redesigns the wine route in a “Let’s walk through the works” way.
Champagne aesthete journey
Its bubbles have always been associated with the artistic sphere. Not a vernissage without them. Beyond that, many of its houses are patrons and publishers of works in their own right. Thereby Ruinart and Perrier-Jouët maintain a close partnership with the biggest contemporary art fairs. Pommery has made its cellars a place for extraordinary “experiments”. But today, with Vign’Art, it’s even in the vineyards that it happens. Nineteen works have been selected and are exhibited from Reims to Épernay. A libertarian (and free) land art course which is also the discovery of the Champagne terroir, from the vine to the bottle. Special Mentions for New startby Vincent Rahir, a giant cetacean springing from the park of the Gosset house, in Aÿ, and I Believe I Can Fly, by Gleb Dusavitskiy, who spreads his pink wings in Ludes, at Canard Duchêne. Off piste, after having had brunch on the terrace of the Ruinart house in Reims, a visit to the nestsfrom Nils Udo, installed in its vineyards of Taissy is also essential.
Major works at Château La Coste
Direction the small village of Puy-Sainte-Réparade, north of Aix-en-Provence. Between wooded massifs, lavender fields, flowering olive trees and biodynamic vines, discover Chateau La Coste. No gate, but two concrete walls erected by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando mark the entrance to the estate, a little further on a giant spider by Louise Bourgeois is reflected in a body of water… Right from the start, we fall into the world of Patrick McKillen, an Irishman who fell in love with this 200-hectare amphitheater twenty years ago. Passionate of wine, but also of art and architecture, he has made it one of the most beautiful viticultural walks. Over the course of five galleries and around forty works by major artists – Calder, Gehry, West, Othoniel… – scattered throughout nature, we go from discovery to discovery. Latest: Rail Car, Monumental sculpture by Bob Dylan, wagon in wrought iron lace seeming to wait for the loading of grapes from the upcoming harvest. Twenty-four of his paintings are also exhibited, alongside Chagall, Matisse, Monet… in the Renzo Piano pavilion. Here, the art is grand cru! And to end on a high note, we visit the cellars designed by Jean Nouvel, before taking a seat on the Terrace to taste the Rosé for a night.
Château La Coste: 2750, route de la Cride, 13610 Le Puy-Sainte-Réparade. chateau-la-coste.com
Time travel at Peyrassol
Another must in this museology of the vines: the Commanderie de Peyrassol, an organic 850-hectare estate, a former hamlet founded in the 13the century by the order of the Templars on the foothills of the Massif des Maures. Philippe Austruy, man of wine and art, owner-collector shows more than a hundred works there and has even established a residence there.artist. In the Parc des sculptures, we wander from vineyards to clearings, from Arman to Dubuffet, from Ben to César, from Venet to Tàpies, we have Anne and Patrick Poirier on our “eyes”… A spectacular appetizer before taking terrace and glass of rosé Chez Jeannette, the domain’s table, with Daniel Buren’s banners floating over the vineyard as the focal point. See also The stripping of society by Michelangelo Pistoletto, a work of flesh, and Facing time, crossed perspectives on the Philippe Austruy and De Jonckheere collections,the two exhibition events of this summer.
Commandery of Peyrassol: RN7, 83340 Flassans-sur-Issole. peyrassol.com
Clash of cultures in Sainte Roseline
We take a short tour through Les Arcs-sur-Argens and Sainte Roseline. A sumptuous alley of bicentenary trees leads to the park of this château, a classified growth, where a vast basin bordered by redwoods lets the water of a holy spring ripple (a hermit drank there in the 10th century).e century). This domain, managed by a woman, Aurélie Bertin-Teillaud, is not only the place of production of very great wines of Provence. It also holds a treasure architectural : a 12th century cloistere century and a chapel with mosaic by Chagall, bas-relief by Giacometti, stained glass windows by Jean Bazaine and Raoul Ubac. In collaboration with the Lelong & Co Gallery, it also hosts the sculptures of the immense Catalan artist Jaume Plensa, including a work 4.5 meters high.
Château Sainte Roseline: 1854, route de Sainte-Roseline, 83460 Les Arcs-sur-Argens. saint-roseline.com